In my experience, a spring ski break has always been a more relaxed affair in comparison to the adrenalin-pumping, black-run-conquering, powder-hunting thrills of a peak-season snow escapade. Instead, eking out the last few runs from the spring snow and long, languid slope-side lunches in the alpine sun are the key ingredients of an end of season mountain holiday. With snow-sure high altitude skiing around the Mont Fort glacier, a sunny mountain aspect and lift-served off-piste, Verbier was an obvious choice for some late season skiing.
I land in Geneva to bright spring sunshine and temperatures in the low 20s. With the verdant greens of the landscape complimenting the clear icy blues of Lake Geneva, it was hard to believe that there would be any snow left on the mountains. The transfer to Verbier is a picturesque two hour drive that follows the curve of the lake along the spine of its northern shores; on a clear sunny day you can see across to Évian-les-Bains nestled by the water on the French side of the lake. The journey also takes you past Lausanne and Montreux - two beautiful Swiss towns within easy reach of Verbier and perfect for a day trip should you want a day off from skiing. Both are full of character and well worth a visit should you get the chance. Sitting in a café and watching the world go by next to the glistening waters of Lake Geneva is a memorable experience.
At the eastern end of the lake we veer south and start to climb higher into the mountains. The sun is still shining down from a hazy blue alpine sky, the fields are still a vibrant green… there is still no snow to be seen! Our driver assures me that there is skiing to be had.
We arrive - into Verbier village centre - a vision of chocolate box chalets and lodges nestling shoulder to shoulder with exclusive boutiques, restaurants and the inimitable après ski bars - and are greeted with views of snow-crested peaks. Cue a collective sigh of relief! We continue our drive to the top of the village past the Medran Gondola and are met with the sight of the huge revolving silver 'W' glinting in the sun. The W wow factor has certainly arrived in Verbier.
W Verbier has a superb location on Place Blanche at the foot of the slopes. The square in front of the hotel is at the end of the long blue run back into town, which makes the W the only five star ski-in hotel in the resort. There is always something going on in the square - whilst I was there a temporary ice rink had been set up by the bar. Children were enjoying whizzing around on the ice whilst parents sat in the spring sunshine listening to music and enjoying a glühwein. A fittingly cool and convivial space for guests to meet and exchange tales of mountain thrills and spills after a day on the challenging slopes of Verbier.
A captivating blend of contemporary styling and alpine accents greets you as you step through the doors of the W. Bold colours counterpoint glossy black furniture and fittings - an urban-cool enclave juxtaposed with the dramatic mountain scenery, all perfectly framed by huge floor-to-ceiling picture windows.
The theme continues in the guest rooms - which are incredibly spacious for a European ski resort and more in-keeping with the generous room sizes found in North American ski destinations - and all come complete with balconies and the signature W beds. The E-WOW Suite is the cherry on the top of the cupcake. This huge loft-style space includes a bar area, a sitting area, a generous balcony and - the pièce de résistance - a huge revolving bed that allows you to spin round to watch the sun rising up over the mountains through the floor-to-ceiling windows or back round to face the large flat screen television.
After unpacking and freshening up, we went to sort out our ski equipment. Just across the road from the foyer is the ski hire shop where you can get kitted out with the latest carving skis or boards. The ski lockers and boot room is a quick walk back across the road in the main building. All set to take on the slopes the following day, we retired to the Living Room bar to celebrate with a cocktail - I can highly recommend the Lychee & Raspberry Martini - and to watch the sun dip below the dark peaks of the mountains.
The next morning I couldn't wait to hit the slopes. Few resorts can rival the extensive off-piste terrain of Verbier, and I enlisted the services of Adam, one of the exceptional guides from the renowned Altitude Ski and Snowboard School, to help me tackle the mountain. After a few gentle runs on some 'cruisey blues' and steep yet wide reds - and with some helpful tips and adjustments from Adam - I felt that I had my ski legs back; I was ready to tackle Verbier's renowned off-piste.
It was with a battalion of butterflies in my stomach that we started the traverse onto the infamous 'Tortin' run. The key here is picking the right spot to drop onto the steep slope; with a lot of these notorious ski runs they don't present a great difficulty for more experienced skiers, but contemplating entry into them and the crucial first turns are paramount - especially with tricky snow conditions. As such I felt my life was in Adam's hands as I took a deep breath before taking the plunge down this steep and unforgiving field of moguls. It was a battle between me, my nerves and the mountain; the heavy porridge-like spring snow only serving to add to the challenge. Reaching the bottom (in one piece!) and looking back up at the wall of ice that I had somehow conquered, I felt a warm glow of satisfaction and exhilaration.
This is why we ski - for that burst of adrenalin and heart-in-your-mouth moment where you pit yourself against nature. The rest of the run back down into the valley is a relatively gentle run, and Adam takes the opportunity to get me to ski on one leg at a time - learning to throw my weight into the mountain to commit to each turn; essential skills for taking on bumps and steep off-piste, such as Tortin.
By this point, I felt that I had truly earned a drink so we skied down to 1936 Bar, a tented bar set right on the piste that plays chilled-out music and has deck chairs lined up so you can enjoy your ice-cold beer relaxing in the mountain air with the sun on your face. The bar soon gets busy with the après ski crowd and has such a friendly ambience, we decide to have one more for the road - a great way to end the day.
That night we decide to eat in Restaurant Arola. Chef Sergi Arola has created a menu that fuses the concept of Spanish tapas with Swiss classics and presents them with modern flair. To start we share an array of 'Pica Pica'- white asparagus, patatas bravas and slow-cooked eggs; all are delicious. I would highly recommend the Spanish Rice 'Mary Montana' which I chose for my main course. All of this was accompanied by some excellent Swiss wine from the Valais region. The Swiss are, understandably, proud of their home-produced wine and, as so little actually gets exported outside of the country, I feel you really must indulge whilst you are here.
Après ski in Verbier is almost as revered as the excellent skiing, and celebrities and members of royalty are often spotted amongst the partying crowd. We decided to head out to the après ski bar at Farinet Hotel, a vivacious bar that has an open-air terrace where people sit under fur blankets and throws whilst enjoying some of the best cocktails in town. After this it seemed our destination was inevitable - the legendary Farm nightclub, where we danced the night away in the midst of a melange of people - some still in ski-wear straight off the mountain, apparently unable to tear themselves away from the buzzing après ski scene.
Verbier is tinged with celebrity but the vibe in the village is very much friendly and inclusive - it is clear that many guests return year after year and so know each other and the seasonnaires that work in the resort. I certainly leave with a desire to return - and a desire to pit myself, once again, against the mighty Tortin.